<FirstLetter>If you're lucky enough to call yourself an experienced Champagne drinker, you're likely already familiar with the greatness that is Pierre Péters. But those just getting into grower Champagne or new to Champagne altogether will find that their Cuvée de Réserve may be the best introduction to the world of fine bubbly, grower or otherwise.</FirstLetter>

We'll be covering grower Champagne and Champagne overall in greater detail in the near future, but in general, grower Champagne can be defined as wines from the region of Champagne that are crafted and marketed by the same producer that farmed the grapes. This is in contrast to the maisons, or houses, of Champagne—including Moët & Chandon, Veuve Clicquot, and Pol Roger, to name a few—which purchase most or all of the grapes that are blended together to create the majority of their final products.

With the grapes for the best grower wines typically coming from either a single vineyard at the smallest or a single village or handful of adjacent villages within Champagne at the largest, these wines will usually provide a greater sense of terroir, the catchall term for sense of place that includes factors such as the soil, climate, and elevation of the vineyard areas.

Growers also tend to have far greater control over the entire winemaking process from start to finish, from maintaining the vines and harvesting the grapes to the creation of the wines, including blending, aging, and bottling. This results in a more significant ability overall to craft and fine-tune the wines, whereas many larger producers blend together wines from vines not under their management, often leaving them with less control and ability to influence the final wine.

This combination of both locational specificity and viticultural and winemaking control allows for grower-producers to create some of the highest-quality, most unique, and, importantly, most delicious wines that are made today in Champagne, exemplified in the Cuvée de Réserve bottling from Pierre Péters described below.

That said, it is imperative to note that there are, in fact, incredible house Champagnes all along the price gamut. The highest level of these include well-known options such as Dom Pérignon and Louis Roederer's Cristal, as well as smaller-production bottlings like Krug's Clos du Mesnil, which, much like a grower bottling, is made of grapes from a single, walled plot of Chardonnay vines within Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, the village where Pierre Péters is based.

At lower price-points, nonvintage house offerings from Pol Roger and Louis Roederer, among others, are quite stellar and are an excellent introduction to the wines of Champagne, as well.

Additionally, houses will often have greater consistency year to year than growers, as they are able to blend from a greater selection of grapes and vineyard areas and typically have more extensive reserves of older wines for nonvintage blends. These factors allow houses to create a more similar product each year, whether for single-vintage or nonvintage wines.

But enough of the details of grower Champagne: there will be plenty of time later on to learn more about that. For now, read on to get a look at this special wine from Pierre Péters, and to see why you should be drinking it.

![Pierre Péters's Cuvée de Réserve on Rock with Flowers](/assets/blog/pierre-peters/pierre-peters-inline.jpg)

### **[Pierre Péters Cuvée de Réserve Blanc de Blancs – $64](https://www.wine-searcher.com/find/pierre+peter+cuvee+de+rsrv+blanc+grand+cru+brut+champagne+france/1/usa)**

Of the few thousand growers who produce their own wines in the Champagne region, Pierre Péters, now headed by fourth-generation Rodolphe Péters, is one of the icons of the "grower movement." The estate is regarded as a leader at the forefront of the rise in grower-producers, and you'd be hard-pressed to go wrong with any of its wines.

Based in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger within the Côte des Blancs, the area of Champagne known for producing some of the highest-quality Chardonnay on its chalky soils, the estate originally began producing its own wines in 1919. Expanding over the years, it is now in possession of a number of vineyards in several villages, predominantly within the Côte des Blancs.

The Cuvée de Réserve, Peters's "entry-level" wine, if you can call it that, is crafted with fruit from a selection of the estate's vineyard holdings in the [Grand Cru](/guide/terms/grand-cru-champagne) villages of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Cramant, Avize, and Oger. This bottling is also nonvintage, indicating that it is a blend of various vintage years, with the older [reserve wines](/guide/terms/champagne-reserve-wines) aging in a [solera](/guide/terms/solera) system to give the wine a deeper, aged character and reducing vintage variations from year to year.

Following partial [malolactic fermentation](/guide/terms/malolactic-fermentation), it is then aged for at least two years in the bottle on the [lees](/guide/terms/lees), rounding out its flavors and giving it pronounced notes of pastries and cream.

Flawlessly crafted, with a citrusy acidity, creamy texture, hints of both sweetness and salinity, and a resoundingly pleasant chalkiness that is present in most of Pierre Péters's wines, this is an exquisite example of Champagne that is perfect for drinking on its own, as an aperitif leading into a meal, or even paired with a wide variety of foods. It is a beautiful representation of the Côte des Blancs, grower Champagne, and Champagne in general.

Find it on Wine-Searcher: [Pierre Péters Cuvée de Réserve Blanc de Blancs](https://www.wine-searcher.com/find/pierre+peter+cuvee+de+rsrv+blanc+grand+cru+brut+champagne+france/1/usa)

Perhaps the best introduction to grower Champagne you will find, Pierre Péters's Cuvée de Réserve may also be one of the finest nonvintage Champagnes around.

Pierre Péters – Cuvée de Réserve Blanc de Blancs

<FirstLetter>You'd do well to steer clear of the 2011 Champagne vintage. See the four ominous digits preceding the name of a wine on a restaurant list or on a bottle on a quick dip into a shop and it's tempting to think that it can't be that bad.</FirstLetter>

Well, it is.

The vintage resulted in dismally low production volumes, though given the generally poor quality of the little wine produced, it may not be so dismal after all. Even wines that may have passed whatever quality level could be considered adequate are, at this point a decade on, likely well past their supposed prime.

Though while you should, I beg you, tuck the vintage away into the dark corner of your mind reserved for blind fear and avoidance, it is a year that growers and producers in Champagne will be unable to quickly forget. Beginning with an uncharacteristically hot start to the growing season, the vintage transitioned to a wet, frigid summer with unyielding bombardments of hail. Grapes that survived the ice pelting unscathed were, due to the atypical weather, often unripe and lacking the structure needed to create great, or even decent, wines. As though this weren't enough, much of harvest was drenched by heavy downpours, leading to grape rot and diluted juice in the cellars. All in all, it was a pretty bad year.

But as I've come to find time and again, the wine world is one of exceptions, and the Champagne estate of Larmandier-Bernier has a habit of being, well, exceptional. Its 2011 Vieille Vigne du Levant exceeds all expectations of this vintage and would hold its own against, or I dare say even surpass, most bubblies of any year, including recent heralded vintages like 2008 and 2012.

What makes it so unusually delightful, you ask? For one, it has none of the undesirable traits mentioned above: It is resoundingly concentrated, is amply ripe, and possesses an enlivening backbone of structural acidity. But it is also a wine that should be celebrated for its excellence beyond a heroic escape from inhospitable origins. Remove the year from the label and this wouldn’t be a tale of surmounting great odds, of crafting something that is merely better than the rest in a comparison of “who didn’t make the worst wine this year,” but rather a story of just what happens to be a spectacular wine.

![Pierre and Sophie Larmandier of Larmandier-Bernier](/assets/blog/larmandier-bernier-vieille-vigne-du-levant-2011/larmandier-winemakers.jpeg)

<InlineImageCaption>Pierre and Sophie Larmandier | <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.polanerselections.com/">Polaner Selections</a></ InlineImageCaption>

### Larmandier-Bernier

Peter Liem, perhaps *the* Champagne cognoscente, writes in his (imaginatively titled) masterpiece book, *Champagne*, that Larmandier-Bernier is “one of the finest estates in the Côte des Blancs.” Well, my lesser tastebuds and I aren’t going to object to that. Nor would we, except to maybe expand his acclaim beyond just the Côte des Blancs to include all of Champagne.

While the estate is now known as an exalted grower-producer harvesting all of their fruit from their own vineyards (if you need a crash course on grower Champagne, my [article](/posts/pierre-peters-cuvee-de-reserve) on Pierre Péters's Cuvée de Réserve goes over the basics), the story of Larmandier-Bernier begins long ago. Like that of many others in the world of artisanal wine, it is one of a generational passing down of land, along with the know-how, craft, and, most importantly, desire to sustain and improve that which is inherited.

Before the current estate existed, the Larmandier and Bernier families separately farmed grapes and produced wines in Champagne going back to at least as early as the late 1700s. To put that in perspective, Larmandiers and Berniers have been tending to the land and producing wines for almost as long as the United States has existed! But their modern arrangement was established fairly recently in 1971, with the Larmandier and Bernier families coming together to marry Philippe Larmandier and Elisabeth Bernier and create the aptly named, Vertus-based estate of Larmandier-Bernier.

But even with this history, the family didn't receive significant recognition until 1988, with the return of Pierre Larmandier, Philippe and Elisabeth’s son, along with a pioneering vision for the future. With his wife, Sophie, Pierre expanded the estate's holdings over the years, ensuring that any grape that made it into their wines was meticulously tended to by their own hands. As of now, they currently own a number of properties throughout the Côte des Blancs in the villages of Vertus, Oger, Avize, Cramant, and Chouilly.

With these vineyards under their control, they were able to cease the application of pesticides and herbicides to their vines and soil, eventually adopting biodynamic and organic viticulture by the early aughts. They likewise opted for a lighter hand in the cellar, including allowing the wines to ferment naturally via the indigenous yeasts present on the grapes from the vine, rather than using commercial yeasts.

With Pierre and his plan at the helm, the estate continued to improve year after year and rose to the forefront of the grower movement. In 2017, Pierre and Sophie's son, Arthur, joined the estate and continues the family's history and legacy in the region, as well as their outsize role in it.

While the Larmandiers try not to interfere with the natural processes of growing and fermenting, it is not for lack of intention. They are known to do things differently, including harvesting grapes at a higher ripeness level than most others in the region (they determine the perfect level of ripeness by tasting the grapes) and extensively aging their wines, particularly the higher-end offerings like their Vieille Vigne du Levant.

Their methods perhaps explain why they often excel in vintages when others do not, as in 2011, where their wines are the exception in a year in which few producers created wines of note. A definitive, knowledgeable hand is used, but not a firm one. They merely guide the wine towards the ideal representation of itself and don’t force it to be any way that it is inherently not. In this, they find perfection, or at least as close to it as you can get.

![Larmandier-Bernier Vieille Vigne du Levant 2011](/assets/blog/larmandier-bernier-vieille-vigne-du-levant-2011/larmandier-front.jpg)

### **[Larmandier-Bernier Vieille Vigne du Levant 2011 – $112](https://www.wine-searcher.com/find/larmandier+bernier+vieilles+vigne+du+levant+grand+cru+extra+brut+champagne+blanc+de+france/2011/usa)**

Produced since 1988, what we now know as Larmandier-Bernier’s Vieille Vigne du Levant was originally named Vieille Vigne de Cramant for the village where the vineyards reside. It was changed after some time to reduce confusion with the word “crémant,” the term reserved for sparkling wines made in France using the traditional Champagne method, but outside of Champagne.

The wine’s current name comes from Bourron du Levant, one of the two parcels of fifty- to eighty-year-old vines on the Butte de Saran, a hill within Cramant, from which its grapes are sourced. The plot is south-easterly facing, ensuring significant sun exposure, particularly in the morning and early afternoon. This disposition is at least partly responsible for the strength and concentration of the vineyard's namesake wine. Curious (and non-Francophone) folk will note that, per Google Translate, “levant” is, appropriately, French for “east.” (“Learn French” still sits on its perch on my to-do list, as it has for some time now—to say nothing of Italian, German, and all of the other languages of wine-producing regions. Maybe one day. Until then, I'll continue to try my best with pronunciations, which admittedly could use some work.)

The first part of the name, “Vieille Vigne,” is an expression not unique to this wine or even Champagne, and you’ll see the term or some variation or translation of it on many labels the world over. It translates to English as “old vine” and implies the generally understood notion that older vines result in higher-quality wines.

The conventional thinking goes that as vines age, they produce fewer grapes, but those produced are often more concentrated and complex. The problem is that there are few to no restrictions on using this term on a label, as well as that there is little consensus on what qualifies as “old.” That said, I would certainly say that the fifty- to eighty-year-old vines that go into this wine are sufficiently *vieilles* to justify the term's place on the bottle.

Also sprinkled on the label are several more terms, some of which you’re likely to see on other Champagnes, particularly grower bottles like that of Pierre Péters I previously highlighted. Emblazoned on the front just below the name of the wine, "Grand Cru" is likely the most prominent. In Champagne, this conveys a significance similar to other French regions: that the stuff inside is supposed to be good, very good. But how it is classified is a bit different. Rather than being applied to individual vineyards, as in Burgundy, or estates, as in Bordeaux, the entire village is designated as Grand Cru in Champagne. With 100% of the grapes for this bottling coming from Cramant, a village within the Côte des Blancs and one of those classified as Grand Cru, the wine is permitted to include the term on its label.

You’ll also notice the terms “Blanc de Blancs” and “Extra-Brut.” The former indicates that, as a “white of whites,” all the grapes that go into the wine are, expectedly, white—in this case Chardonnay. The latter term is a designation of dosage, the introduction of a mixture of sugar and additional wine added between the second, carbonating fermentation and the final corking and caging. The most familiar of dosage classifications is brut, which indicates that the final wine has less than twelve grams of sugar per liter. With its two grams per liter, this wine is extra brut, which must have between zero and six grams per liter.

This makes it fairly dry by typical Champagne standards, though in line with much of what grower-producers have been putting out lately. It’s important to note that, for the most part, the purpose of dosage, or lack thereof, is to create a more balanced wine and help it show its best, rather than just make it sweet or supposedly allow for it to show its so-called natural state. It all has to do with the other components of the wine and how they all come together harmoniously or, tragically, not.


In the case of this wine, there is nothing tragic about it. While the dosage is rather low, its dryness is imperceptible on the tastebuds, and with its richness and full-bodied nature, it possesses a pleasant—no, not sweetness—but that kind of lingering sensation you get from pastries that can sometimes resemble it.

Though not mentioned on the label, the initial, uncarbonated wine is fermented in well-used oak. Specifically, the estate uses a combination of casks and vats produced by the Stockinger cooperage for their discerning approach to selection and seasoning that better allows for the nature of the wine to show through. As they are not new barrels, no oak flavors or aromas are imparted to the wine, but its time spent in wood rather than stainless steel allows for air to reach it, adding a unique depth and complexity. This fermentation commences with naturally occurring yeasts present on the grape skins from the vineyard, followed by spontaneous [malolactic fermentation](/guide/terms/malolactic-fermentation).

![The Larmandier-Bernier Cellar](/assets/blog/larmandier-bernier-vieille-vigne-du-levant-2011/larmandier-cellar.jpeg)

<InlineImageCaption>The Larmandier-Bernier Cellar | <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.polanerselections.com/">Polaner Selections</a></ InlineImageCaption>

All of these steps and decisions result in a wine with an intriguing vinous quality that resembles a white wine, particularly white Burgundy, though with an effervescence of bubbles and the luxuriously pastry-like, nutty characteristic that Champagne often has. It fills your mouth with flavors and sensations that linger, then swiftly transform into something else entirely.

Yes, it's immensely enjoyable as a hedonistic sensory experience of a well-made beverage, but it also evokes something deeper. The combined intellectual and emotional trigger of knowing all of the components, history, and people that make the wine what it is—each step in that year alone, in generation to generation of a family, and in the history of a region as a whole—all showing themselves in that moment you take a sip. I know it may sound ridiculous; that it's just a tasty bottle of expensive wine. But stay on this journey long enough (you are here reading this after all), and you'll start to see and feel what makes a wine like this so extraordinary.

If you're convinced and manage to find a bottle, there are a few things to keep in mind. While I’d be sure to give this wine the spotlight when you serve it, it’s remarkably versatile and should shine in a variety of situations, with or without food. Its vinous qualities will lend itself well to food, but I personally enjoyed it before the meal, on its own, to ensure it could be given the focus it deserved and keep its flavors untainted by any of the varied dishes served. But if you’re eating a more homogenous meal, go ahead and try them together.

Serve it warmer than you might drink other white or sparkling wines, or it will appear tight and closed off. And unless the occasion truly calls for it, refrain from flutes or coupés and just use a regular wine glass—though perhaps less beautiful, you’ll be much more able to appreciate the aromas and flavors.

I’d suggest snagging a few bottles, assuming you have the space and a proper cellar (a cool basement will do). Drink one now, and stow away the others for a few years; I imagine it will only improve with age.

![Larmandier-Bernier Vieille Vigne du Levant 2011 on the Ground](/assets/blog/larmandier-bernier-vieille-vigne-du-levant-2011/larmandier-ground.jpg)

I suppose I should also note that while I encourage you to buy as much of this as you can, it is, undoubtedly, not a cheap bottle of wine, and anyone who tells you otherwise is at risk of exposing their delusion. But value, of course, is relative. And this wine holds its own against, and I’d say is superior to, many of the heavy hitters of Champagne—and it does so at a far lower price. After all, it hails from a single hill within a Grand Cru village and is crafted, painstakingly so, by masters of both vine and wine. Taking all of this into account, the price seems to become ever so more reasonable. (Either that or I’m becoming delusional myself. Though where’s the fun in a hobby without the grandeur of a little self-delusion?)

It is a truly special wine, and whether you are already a converted, frequent Champagne drinker or you’re in desperate need of a good nudging away from the New Year’s-or-never mindset, I bet you’ll thoroughly enjoy it.

Find it on Wine-Searcher: [Larmandier-Bernier Vieille Vigne du Levant 2011](https://www.wine-searcher.com/find/larmandier+bernier+vieilles+vigne+du+levant+grand+cru+extra+brut+champagne+blanc+de+france/2011/usa)

A spectacular grower Champagne from the Côte des Blancs that vastly exceeds the reputation of the vintage, the 2011 Larmandier-Bernier Vieille Vigne du Levant is a perfect wine to enjoy now or age for years to come.

Larmandier-Bernier – Vieille Vigne du Levant 2011

<FirstLetter>Is it possible to refer to Montepulciano d'Abruzzo without first mentioning that it is often confused with Vino Nobile di Montepulciano? Obviously, I couldn't do it. In fairness, differentiating between the two is a bit difficult—at least at first.</FirstLetter>

In brief, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano comes from the area surrounding the village of Montepulciano in Tuscany, the region of central Italy known for Chianti Classico and Brunello di Montalcino (you may as well add this to the mix of Italian "m" words to remember). And much like Chianti and Brunello, Vino Nobile is produced from the Sangiovese grape.

But Montepulciano is also a grape variety grown throughout much of Italy—most notably in Abruzzo, a region located on the coast, due east of Rome.

While I could go on about how the wines of Montepulciano the grape differ in character from those of Montepulciano the village, this will need to be saved for another day. Today, we're here only for the berry.

But if you'd rather not wait to find out the specific differences between the two, try a Montepulciano d'Abruzzo from a reputable producer with a positive track record (perhaps the one in this article). Then try a Vino Nobile from a credible estate, like Dei or Avignonesi. You won't get a comprehensive understanding of these wines from trying a few bottles, but it's a good place to start.

 

### Montepulciano d'Abruzzo

Though it is one of Italy's most widely planted varieties, Montepulciano is not as well known outside of the country as, say, Sangiovese or Nebbiolo. And those who are familiar with it hold many of its wines with little regard.

Yet, in the right hands, it is a variety with serious potential, particularly within Abruzzo. Just look at two "cool-kid" favorites: Valentini and Emidio Pepe, both of whose vinous works of art hold their own against the highest strata of fine wines, Italian or otherwise. But estates like these aren't the norm here.

In Abruzzo, as in much of the wine world, the interests of enterprise often trump those of artistry. After all, it costs a great deal to produce a good wine. Investments made in pursuit of crafting wines of note typically never realize vast returns unless a wine achieves "cult status," like those of the aforementioned Valentini. Even then, much of the profit from the high prices you see goes to importers, distributors, retail shops, or—more likely—flippers, all capitalizing on the demand for these wines. In most cases, it truly takes a sole desire to create beautiful wines, and nothing else, to do just that.

Most wines of Abruzzo unfortunately fall short of this, with many lacking in concentration and flavor due to high yields. The more fruit is grown on a set of vines, the more dilute the juice. But more grapes means more wine, and more wine means more money, at least for a little while.

At the other end of the spectrum, many estates in the area that do invest significant sums toward winemaking go too far in the opposite direction. They produce wines that are over-extracted during fermentation and over-oaked during aging, leaving them unbalanced with high alcohol levels and, well, just so much oak that it becomes fairly unpleasant, at least to me.

But there are a few producers that maintain low-yield vines and take a less heavy-handed approach during winemaking. The resulting wines possess darkness and depth of color, resoundingly sweet fruit, and smooth tannins that, while often approachable in youth, round out even further with age. And a few, like Tiberio's, are both readily available and affordable.

![Tiberio Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2018](/assets/blog/tiberio-montepulciano-dabruzzo-2018/tiberio-montepulciano-dabruzzo-2018-inline.jpg)

### Agricola Tiberio

Cristiana Tiberio, head winemaker for her family's estate, Agricola Tiberio, has taken the winery to new heights in recent years. She and her brother, Antonio, who oversees viticultural duties, exemplify what the Abruzzo region is capable of when its grapes are expertly grown and vinified.

This expertise is unsurprising, though, given that before returning to the estate in 2008, Cristiana's résumé reads like a who's who of some of the most highly sought-after wineries in the world, including stints at Jacques Selosse in Champagne, Egon Müller in the Mosel Valley of Germany, and Coulée de Serrant in Savennières of the Loire Valley in France.

![Tiberio Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2018](/assets/blog/tiberio-montepulciano-dabruzzo-2018/tiberio-profile.jpg)

<InlineImageCaption>From Left: Cristiana Tiberio | <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://veritywines.com">Verity Wines</a>; Cristiana and Antonio Tiberio in their estate vineyard in Abruzzo | <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="http://www.tiberio.it">Agricola Tiberio</a></ InlineImageCaption>

The estate is perhaps best known for its white wines made from Trebbiano Abruzzese, a native white variety of Abruzzo. In particular, the Trebbiano d'Abruzzo Fonte Canale, a single-vineyard wine, is renowned for its profound vibrance and age-worthiness. The family's lower-priced Trebbiano d'Abruzzo, as well as their Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo—which is a rosé wine that is redder in color and deeper in flavor than most rosés due to its longer maceration—are also exceptional and highly regarded.

But their "entry-level" Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, which I'm highlighting here, is a steal, often ringing up at under $20. It is crafted of hand-harvested grapes sourced from vines with an average age of more than fifty years, followed by aging in stainless steel and bottle.

 

### **[Tiberio Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2018 – $19](https://www.wine-searcher.com/find/tiberio+montepulciano+d+abruzz+italy/2018/usa)**

The wine itself is juicy and full of red and dark fruits with a pleasantly tart acidity. I get so much ripe, black cherry from it that it's almost overwhelming on the first sip. But it's never forceful, with light floral and herbal hints in the background. The flavors and sensations last extraordinarily long on the palate, with soft tannins that, along with the wine's acidity, indicate a potential to further improve with age.

Perhaps most importantly, though, this wine is approachable and crowd-pleasing, yet it also maintains an ability to sate the desires of serious wine nerds.

It's likely best served with a meat-based, classically Italian meal—though, as a vegetarian, this is just my speculation (try it and let me know). I found it to be stellar with a simple, rich tomato sauce over pasta. Also look to partner it with lasagna (meat or vegetarian), meatballs, or sausage. But while it pairs wonderfully with food, this isn't a wine that demands it: I found it to be gratifying on its own, as well.

It is exceptional straight from the bottle, but also does well with a bit of air. Don't be afraid to throw it in the decanter for a while or leave it open to drink over a few days. For me, it was even better on the second and third days than the first.

If you can't find the 2018, any other recent vintage should be great, as well.

Find it on Wine-Searcher: [Tiberio Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2018](https://www.wine-searcher.com/find/tiberio+montepulciano+d+abruzz+italy/2018/usa)

Known for its picturesque villages and landscape, Abruzzo also has the potential to foster world-class wines—a potential that is, unfortunately, rarely realized. The Tiberio family crafts wines that go against this norm. To find out what that looks (and tastes) like in practice, try their Montepulciano d'Abruzzo.

Tiberio – Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2018

<FirstLetter>Yep, this is a wine site. Yes, we are interested in other things, too. No, we aren't necessarily experts in these fields. So why should you care what else we're reading? Maybe you shouldn't, but it couldn't hurt to read on, could it?</FirstLetter>

If you've made it to this point, here are a few things we're reading and watching this week that aren't (strictly) wine related. So pop a bottle, sit back, and relax. Now if only there was a place where you could find out which wine to drink...

 

 

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![Hodinkee Cover Image Wristwatch](/assets/blog/watches-chocolate-and-the-return-of-virgil-abloh/hodinkee-pitti-uomo.jpg)

### [A Hodinkee Photo Guide to Style-Mecca Pitti Uomo](https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/watch-spotting-pitti-uomo-spring-2021)

We've been fans of Hodinkee, the wristwatch blog turned media-and-commerce juggernaut, for a long time now. And while we love their writers, this photo report is a gorgeous, image-only look at the watches of Pitti Uomo, the biannual fashion trade show in Florence, Italy.

At each recurrence of this fashion fair, scores of well-dressed folk descend on the city, showing off their tastes and mingling with others as well versed in the language of style as they are. This glimpse into that world of sartorial mastery is the perfect escape for kicking back with a glass of wine and thinking over your next purchase to adorn the wrist of your stemware-lifting hand.



[Photo Report: 45 Watches That Stole The Street-Style Show At Pitti Uomo - HODINKEE](https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/watch-spotting-pitti-uomo-spring-2021)

 

 

 

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![Harrods Chocolate Hall from Wallpaper Magazine](/assets/blog/watches-chocolate-and-the-return-of-virgil-abloh/harrods-chocolate-hall.jpg)

### [Buying Chocolate Never Looked So Good](https://www.wallpaper.com/entertaining/new-harrods-chocolate-hall)

Wallpaper* magazine, the London-based design-and-lifestyle publication, is one of our favorite sources for finding visual inspiration and escaping the tedium of our aesthetically under-curated lives.

Here they highlight the new Chocolate Hall in renowned London department store Harrods, which is (like everything else in the magazine) stunning. While we may not love the fabled pairing of chocolate and wine, we might have to let that slide for this beautiful space.

[New Harrods Chocolate Hall is steeped in history](https://www.wallpaper.com/entertaining/new-harrods-chocolate-hall)

 

 

 

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![GQ's Guide to Affordable Sneakers Article Image](/assets/blog/watches-chocolate-and-the-return-of-virgil-abloh/gq-sneakers.jpg)

### [GQ's Guide to Affordable Sneakers Approved by Fashion's Leading Men](https://www.gq.com/story/sneakers-stylish-celebrities-love)

Is it possible to be a remotely style-conscious human and not check in with GQ somewhat regularly? Well, if by chance you haven't seen this (or you're not a style-conscious human and you still somehow care about this), take a look at this article highlighting a few pairs of affordable sneakers that are approved by the top tier of fashion influencers, including ([wine-lover](https://www.si.com/nba/2018/12/29/lebron-james-lakers-clippers-game-glass-wine-video)) LeBron James, Timothée Chalamet, and Kendrick Lamar.



As with watches, we think that there are a lot of commonalities between sneakers and wine, including that both incite cult-like devotion to brands and producers—often resulting in limited availability and surging prices for the most desirable releases. But much like wine, we're also interested in sneakers with greater accessibility that punch above their weight: the shoes that are always in stock and inexpensive that, most importantly, *you* love, but also that people who are "in the know" will give you a nod for wearing.

[12 Sub-$100 Sneakers the World's Best Dressed Men Swear By](https://www.gq.com/story/sneakers-stylish-celebrities-love)

 

 

 

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![Tinker Hatfield](/assets/blog/watches-chocolate-and-the-return-of-virgil-abloh/tinker-hatfield.jpg)

### [Nike Luminary Tinker Hatfield Designs a Beer Bottle](https://www.complex.com/sneakers/tinker-hatfield-michelob-ultra-beer-bottle-nba-championship)

As you can tell from the GQ article above, we like sneakers. We also like beer—at least when we're not drinking wine. We also like Tinker Hatfield (you should watch the episode featuring him on Netflix's *Abstract* if you haven't). This article from Complex combines them all.

Hatfield is the designer behind many of the most iconic sneakers Nike has ever released, including the Air Max line and numerous iterations of Air Jordans. Phil Knight, Nike's founder, credits him with saving the company, and he is supposedly responsible for keeping Michael Jordan from bailing to Adidas when his relationship with Nike soured. Later on, he was named one of Fortune magazine's most influential designers of the 20th century. Not a bad résumé.

For this year's NBA Finals, Hatfield worked with Michelob to design an extremely limited-production design for their Michelob Ultra brand. The final score of the last game in the series will determine how many bottles are produced.

We may not drink Michelob Ultra often, but we'd like it to be from one of these bottles when we do.

[What's Next for Nike Design Legend Tinker Hatfield? A Beer Bottle](https://www.complex.com/sneakers/tinker-hatfield-michelob-ultra-beer-bottle-nba-championship)

 

 

 

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![Bella Hadid on Off-White Runway](/assets/blog/watches-chocolate-and-the-return-of-virgil-abloh/off-white-runway.jpg)

### [Virgil Abloh Continues his Reign as the King of Fashion](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=--UJgQRM4zA)

If you haven't heard of Virgil Abloh, we're not sure where you've been. The term multi-hyphenate is overused, especially by a bunch of 20- and 30-year-olds who are often, in reality, just unemployed. But the expression doesn't begin to do justice to Virgil and his accomplishments over the last decade or so.

Founder, former artistic director, and now CEO of Off-White; artistic director of Louis Vuitton menswear ready to wear; world-traveling DJ; designer/creative collaborator with Nike, Ikea, Braun—the list goes on and on. He's also designed outfits for Serena Williams's French Open and US Open bouts, attire for Timothée Chalamet's groundbreaking award show appearances, and the wedding gown Hailey Bieber (née Baldwin) wore to her marriage to none other than Justin Bieber himself.

But even for someone so accomplished, this past week has been big. After a year and a half of global, pandemic-induced fashion atrophy epitomized by the rise of the sweatsuit and the fall of pants, Virgil exhibited a new Off-White collection and two Louis Vuitton menswear collections.

The Off-White collection took the form of a traditional runway show, with Bella Hadid modeling a few of the new looks and a performance by M.I.A. Dozens of celebrity onlookers were present, all decked out in the latest Off-White garb and accessories.

Meanwhile, Louis Vuitton debuted its Fall-Winter 2021 and Spring-Summer 2022 menswear collections with two new films. The FW21 video featured worldwide phenomenon BTS, while SS22's film was more narrative driven with a bevy of guests and actors. Both included music direction and production by Benji B—sonic tastemaker, prominent BBC Radio 1 DJ, and the music director for Louis Vuitton, handpicked for the role by Abloh himself.

But beware, if you're unfamiliar with the experimental style of modern fashion shows (see [Alessandro Michele's Gucci Fall-Winter 2018 show](https://www.gq.com/story/gucci-fall-winter-2018-severed-heads)), the LV SS22 film may be a bit, well, avant-garde.

[Off-White c/o Virgil Abloh Fall Winter 2021 "Laboratory of Fun" ~ special guest M.I.A.](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=--UJgQRM4zA)

[Men's Fall-Winter 2021 Show in Seoul with House Ambassadors BTS | LOUIS VUITTON](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KsH_V0D4PyA)

[Men's Spring-Summer 2022 Fashion Show | LOUIS VUITTON](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6M8ECbc3RIM)

 

 

Update: It was with profound sadness that we learned of Virgil Abloh’s passing on November 28, 2021. His contributions to the worlds of fashion, design, art, music, and creativity in general will continue to reverberate and inspire.

“I’m just an eager kid who looks at every day as a possibility to make something and leave a good impact.” – Virgil Abloh

 

<hr />

 

*All Images Sourced from Linked Articles and Videos*

What we're reading and watching this week outside of the world of wine.

Watches, Chocolate, and the Return of Virgil Abloh

<FirstLetter>Beyond the essential joy of drinking it, the most alluring of wine's qualities may be its connections to history. Showing up in records and archeological findings dating back thousands of years, and in descriptions of significant events, including the signing of the United States Constitution, it is captivatingly intertwined with the past.</FirstLetter>

After all, who wouldn't care to try a wine from a château that Thomas Jefferson visited and praised, such as First-Growth Bordeaux estate Château Haut-Brion? Renowned wine-importer [Kermit Lynch](https://www.kermitlynch.com/) even includes the ([perhaps misquoted](https://www.monticello.org/site/research-and-collections/good-wine-necessity-life-me-spurious-quotation)) saying from Jefferson on the back label of each wine in his portfolio: "Good wine is a necessity of life for me."

But in most instances, wine is relegated to the background, merely present as the primary historical events of the times unfolded, a beverage enjoyed while notable political, scientific, and artistic contributions were made. There have been, however, a few occasions when wine played a key role in defining history's trajectory.

Which brings us to Johannes Kepler (1571–1630), the famed astronomer who discovered the elliptical nature of celestial orbits and built on Nicolaus Copernicus's theories, culminating in his own three laws of planetary motion that are still relevant to this day.

Less well known is that Kepler also contributed to the development of the precursors to calculus, the field of mathematics that is fundamental to almost every branch of science—as well as engineering, finance, computer science, and medicine, among numerous other fields of study and practice. His initial work on this foundational discipline was later developed and formalized by Gottfried Leibniz and, most famously, Isaac Newton, who is often regarded as the true creator of calculus.

Yet it was no falling apple that spurred Kepler’s breakthrough, but rather a bit of vinous intervention.


![Nova Stereometria Doliorum Vinariorum](/assets/blog/kepler/Nova-Stereometria-Doliorum-Vinariorum.png)

<InlineImageCaption>Kepler's Nova Stereometria Doliorum Vinariorum</InlineImageCaption>

In fact, it was wholly due to a wine delivery that Kepler was inspired to formulate and write his *Nova Stereometria Doliorum Vinariorum*, translated as "New Solid Geometry of Wine Barrels." Published in 1615, this work influenced the development of calculus later in the century, though Kepler is not often credited for it.

![Kepler Statue in Linz, Austria](/assets/blog/kepler/kepler-statue.png)

<InlineImageCaption>Statue of Johannes Kepler in Linz, Austria | Aldaron, CC BY 3.0 <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0">https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0</a>, via Wikimedia Commons</InlineImageCaption>

The moment of inspiration occurred in Austria in the early 1600s, as Kepler was to be married to his second wife, Susanna Reuttinger. In need of wine for the wedding and for his new household, he placed an order with the local wine merchant. Upon arrival with the requested barrel of wine, the merchant inserted a marked rod into the hole in the side of the barrel, moving it until the end reached the edge of the base inside. Reading the number on the rod at the opening, the seller declared the volume and price of the wine delivered.

As a mathematician, a scientist, and a careful thinker, this baffled Kepler. He believed it to be a wildly inaccurate method of measurement, as not all wine barrels were of the same shape or dimensions. Seeking a better technique to precisely measure the volume, he advanced the concepts of so-called infinitesimal techniques, building on the work of Archimedes from almost two thousand years earlier.

Essentially, to calculate the volume of a complex body—such as a wine barrel—he posited that the vessel could be divided into smaller, theoretical shapes that were easier to evaluate, such as cylinders. The sum of these volumes would closely estimate the capacity of the whole body. The smaller the slices were made, the more accurate the resulting measurement would be. Those familiar with integral calculus will know that this is the conceptual foundation for this branch of mathematics, which was conceived years later.

Additionally, Kepler sought to determine the barrel shape that would maximize the volume of wine inside. With that goal in mind, he created a rudimentary form of differential calculus, which is used for problems involving optimization such as this. (These contributions to differential calculus were also largely uncredited, as Pierre de Fermat would receive the primary recognition later in the century.)

With these new techniques, he discovered that—much to his surprise—the barrel he'd received and the rod method used to measure its volume were actually fairly close to being mathematically sound. The shape of a standard Austrian wine barrel, like the one he originally purchased, was reasonably maximized for volume, and enabled accurate measurement when the technique the merchant employed was used—even when the overall size of the barrel changed.

Kepler concludes *Nova Stereometria Doliorum Vinariorum* with his attempts to determine the volume of a partially empty wine barrel—a problem for which he did not come up with any solutions.

![Johannes Kepler's Nova Stereometria Doliorum Vinariorum at Christie's Auction](/assets/blog/kepler/auction.jpg)

<InlineImageCaption>Copy of Nova Stereometria Doliorum Vinariorum, First Edition, sold at auction 2019 | Christie’s</InlineImageCaption>

 

While it may not have advanced wine barrel design, mathematical historians count *Nova Stereometria Doliorum Vinariorum* as a significant contribution to the development of calculus. But historians aren’t the only ones who value it; first-edition printings of the book, produced in Linz, Austria in the early 17th century, are also worth quite a bit to collectors. They occasionally come up for sale and often fetch a significant value, like [this copy](https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6210414) that was sold at auction at Christie's in 2019 for a closing price of $32,500 USD, roughly double the estimated sale price.

Now, what might Kepler have been getting delivered? There isn't any record of what wine he ordered, but during this period in the early 17th century, the most popular ones in Europe were sweet wines like Riesling, Sauternes, and Hungarian Tokaji, as well as fortified wines like Port, Madeira, and Sherry. Austria was also producing its own wines at this time, with records indicating that Grüner Veltliner—Austria's most-grown variety today—has been cultivated there since before the time of the Roman Empire. For delivery, most, if not all, wine was purchased and served by the barrel, much like the one Kepler received. Glass bottles were not yet widely used for the shipping, storing, or aging of wine.


![Mysterium Cosmographicum Display Drawing of Planetary Device](/assets/blog/kepler/kepler-model.jpg)

<InlineImageCaption>Device illustrated in Mysterium Cosmographicum</InlineImageCaption>

It's worth noting that this isn't the only alcohol-related contribution that Kepler made to science. A few years before he developed the concepts for and wrote *Nova Stereometria Doliorum Vinariorum,* Kepler published *Mysterium Cosmographicum,* highlighting his early astronomical theories on planetary motion. These ideas supported Nicolaus Copernicus's heliocentric model (postulating that planets revolve around the sun) and speculated on the size and shape of our solar system's orbits. To present his hypotheses, he designed and drew the illustration of the device pictured above in *Mysterium Cosmographicum,* which would display the geometric movements of the planets known at the time.

Historians believe that Kepler intended to physically craft this device from silver, with each of the individual shapes as a liquor-holding vessel. Each would hold a different beverage, and, presumably, partygoers would be able to dispense their desired liquor from a tap connected to the orbital container of their choice.

Though this model for describing paths around the sun turned out to be incorrect, his work here directly led him to create the laws of planetary motion for which he is most famous. Isaac Newton later proved the accuracy of those laws as a close approximation for the trajectories of the planets within our solar system.

While Kepler’s tipple-fueled contributions to science, astronomy, and mathematics are undoubtedly laudable, it’s probably a good thing that today’s scientists and astronomers aren’t so closely tying alcohol to their work.

The astronomer Johannes Kepler, best known for advancing our understanding of the cosmos with his laws of planetary motion, also aided the development of calculus, with a little help from wine.

Wine's Surprising Influence on the History of Calculus

<FirstLetter>It's been a rough year, to put it lightly. Wine is, as always, certainly not a necessity right now, but it can be a bright point: something to look forward to at the end of a day or week, or a night of entertainment all to itself. Recently marking one year since COVID-19 lockdowns began here in the U.S., we can use all the bright points we can get. With vaccination numbers increasing, we're hopefully close to returning to some sense of normality, but until then (and after), a great bottle of wine is something to celebrate.</FirstLetter>

I'm all for opening a treasured bottle to enjoy throughout an evening, but today I'm highlighting four bottles that are on the more "affordable" end of the spectrum. I’ve put that word in quotes because when it comes to wine, affordability is a difficult topic. What is considered affordable varies significantly based on income, necessary expenses, or views on the value of certain items or experiences. In the end, wine is a luxury regardless of the price per bottle. It is meant to be enjoyed, and you should buy whatever brings you that joy, regardless of the cost, characteristics of the wine, or how and where it's made.

That said, I've found $15 to $30 to be the sweet spot for well-crafted bottles that begin to showcase what I think can be so special about wine. Below are four bottles that are easygoing and accessible and that should brighten the day of both a well-seasoned wine veteran as well as someone who's just getting started.

 

![Jean-Claude Lapalu Beaujolais-Villages Vieilles Vignes 2019 on Open Book](/assets/blog/affordable-four/lapalu.jpg)

### **[Jean-Claude Lapalu Beaujolais-Villages Vieilles Vignes 2019 – $24](https://www.wine-searcher.com/find/dom+jean+claude+lapalus+vieilles+vigne+beaujolais+village+france/2019/usa)**

Based in Brouilly, in France's Beaujolais region, Jean-Claude Lapalu has been crafting wines of Gamay for the better part of three decades from vines maintained by two prior generations of Lapalus. A disciple of the winemaking practices of Marcel Lapierre and his fellow originators of the natural wine movement and artisanally crafted Beaujolais wines, Lapalu is a standard-bearer for accessible wines made with minimal to no intervention in the vineyards and the cellar.

His 2019 Beaujolais-Villages Vieilles Vignes bottling perfectly displays minimally extracted, well-ripened fruit offering a floral, perfumed bouquet and red-fruited palate that, to me, evokes pure, red-cherry juice. This is one of my favorite wines, and I can't think of a better introduction to the more serious wines of Beaujolais, well-made natural wines, or, for that matter, wine in general.

Find it on Wine-Searcher: [Jean-Claude Lapalu Beaujolais-Villages Vieilles Vignes](https://www.wine-searcher.com/find/dom+jean+claude+lapalus+vieilles+vigne+beaujolais+village+france/2019/usa)

 

![Bedrock Old Vines Zinfandel 2018 on Marble Countertop](/assets/blog/affordable-four/bedrock.jpg)

### **[Bedrock Old Vine Zinfandel 2018 – $28](https://www.wine-searcher.com/find/bedrock+co+old+vines+zinfandel+sonoma+valley+county+north+coast+california+usa/1/usa)**

Bedrock's Morgan Twain-Peterson, Master of Wine and one of Sonoma's new stars, crafts world-class wines out of meticulously maintained old vines. His best-known bottlings are made from single-vineyard Zinfandel and field-blend vines, many of which are more than a century old.

Much like Riesling (see below), Zinfandel is having something of a comeback, but the key is finding wines that aren't over-extracted, over-oaked, and, most importantly, overripe. Zinfandel is a bit different from other varieties in that it doesn't ripen evenly in the bunch. To ensure ripeness in the least-ripe fruit, growers often pick late, resulting in the ripest grapes becoming almost raisins. This culminates in lower acidity and higher sugars, and therefore, higher alcohol. As a general rule to counter this, look for wines of around 15 percent alcohol or less, like this bottle.

The 2018 Old Vine Zinfandel is made from fruit from a number of different vineyards throughout Sonoma and elsewhere in California, including some of Bedrock's flagship vineyards. It offers a glimpse into the magic of both Zinfandel and Bedrock's higher-level wines at a particularly good value. This will show its best after cellaring for a few years, but it is still absolutely delicious now after decanting for an hour or two and offers a deeper, darker, and spicier experience than the Lapalu.

If you can't find the 2018, the 2019 is currently being released, and based on the composite vineyards from which its fruit is sourced, it looks like it may be an even more serious wine for the money than the 2018, although it will likely require more time in the bottle before it hits its stride.

Find it on Wine-Searcher: [Bedrock Old Vine Zinfandel](https://www.wine-searcher.com/find/bedrock+co+old+vines+zinfandel+sonoma+valley+county+north+coast+california+usa/1/usa)

 

![Donnhoff Estate Riesling 2019 on Marble Countertop with Wine Glass](/assets/blog/affordable-four/donnhoff.jpg)

### **[Dönnhoff Estate Riesling 2019 – $22](https://www.wine-searcher.com/find/donnhoff+riesling+nahe+germany/2019/usa)**


German Riesling fell somewhat out of vogue in America following the two World Wars and a declining interest in sweeter wines, but it's on the verge of a comeback. Riesling in general has been showing up more often on my radar recently, and I've been buying bottles to cellar and drink more frequently myself. Both accessible young and age-able for decades, the best Rieslings from Germany will be immeasurably satisfying to anyone and everyone. I'd actually recommend a semi-sweet Riesling as the first wine to try for someone who's new to wine and for those who say they don't like wine at all.

While many German Rieslings are good values for their quality compared with other grapes and regions, Dönnhoff's Estate Riesling is perhaps one of the best values in all of wine. Based in Nahe, Dönnhoff is one of only a handful of producers outside of the Mosel Valley to really be considered at the top tier of German wine. They produce a number of other, more serious wines from single vineyards, but this one offers a particularly unique value and approachability. It's immensely drinkable now, but will also cellar for the short to medium term. The perfect combination of fruit, acidity, and light sweetness, it's great after dinner and refreshing enough to drink outside this Spring.

Be sure to serve it moderately chilled, at about 45 to 50 degrees.

Find it on Wine-Searcher: [Dönnhoff Estate Riesling](https://www.wine-searcher.com/find/donnhoff+riesling+nahe+germany/2019/usa)

 

![Vietti Moscato d'Asti 2019 on Open Book](/assets/blog/affordable-four/vietti.jpg)

### **[Vietti Moscato d'Asti 2019 – $17](https://www.wine-searcher.com/find/vietti+cascinetta+docg+muscat+d+asti+piemonte+italy/1/usa)**

You may be surprised to find a Moscato on this list, but then again, this isn't your standard Moscato. Yes, it's sweet, only 5 percent alcohol, and not a "serious" wine by any means. But it's a pleasant reminder that wine is meant to be enjoyed, nothing more, and there's nothing more joyful than this. It also helps that it's made from vines that are almost 40 years old and is exceptionally well crafted, which is not surprising considering the family behind it.

The Vietti family has been making wine in Piedmont, Italy, for more than two centuries, establishing themselves as a top-tier producer of single-vineyard Barolo wines, which now sell at retail for hundreds of dollars per bottle and are treasured collectors' bottles. But in addition to prized Nebbiolo, they have also embraced the less noble, native varieties of Piedmont like Barbera, Dolcetto, and Moscato Bianco, growing and producing wines from these "lesser" grapes with the same care and attention they pay to their flagship wines. The result is wines like this Moscato d'Asti, with juicy, peach aromas, a frothy and creamy mouthfeel, and a sweet but not-cloying finish. Perfect for after dinner or as a low-alcohol wine on a hot day.

Both the 2019 and 2020 vintages of this wine are superb, so purchase whichever you can find. Make sure to serve it chilled, just warmed a bit from the refrigerator, at around 40 degrees.

Find it on Wine-Searcher: [Vietti Moscato d'Asti](https://www.wine-searcher.com/find/vietti+cascinetta+docg+muscat+d+asti+piemonte+italy/1/usa)

A year into the pandemic, here are four relatively affordable wines to carry you into Spring and, hopefully, some sense of normality.

Featured Wine

Pierre Péters – Cuvée de Réserve Blanc de Blancs

The Bonvin Newsletter

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Tiberio – Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2018

Web Wanderings

Watches, Chocolate, and the Return of Virgil Abloh

Wine History

Wine's Surprising Influence on the History of Calculus

Buying Guide

Four Uplifting Wines Under $30