Tiberio – Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2018

Is it possible to refer to Montepulciano d'Abruzzo without first mentioning that it is often confused with Vino Nobile di Montepulciano? Obviously, I couldn't do it. In fairness, differentiating between the two is a bit difficult—at least at first.

In brief, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano comes from the area surrounding the village of Montepulciano in Tuscany, the region of central Italy known for Chianti Classico and Brunello di Montalcino (you may as well add this to the mix of Italian "m" words to remember). And much like Chianti and Brunello, Vino Nobile is produced from the Sangiovese grape.

But Montepulciano is also a grape variety grown throughout much of Italy—most notably in Abruzzo, a region located on the coast, due east of Rome.

While I could go on about how the wines of Montepulciano the grape differ in character from those of Montepulciano the village, this will need to be saved for another day. Today, we're here only for the berry.

But if you'd rather not wait to find out the specific differences between the two, try a Montepulciano d'Abruzzo from a reputable producer with a positive track record (perhaps the one in this article). Then try a Vino Nobile from a credible estate, like Dei or Avignonesi. You won't get a comprehensive understanding of these wines from trying a few bottles, but it's a good place to start.

Montepulciano d'Abruzzo

Though it is one of Italy's most widely planted varieties, Montepulciano is not as well known outside of the country as, say, Sangiovese or Nebbiolo. And those who are familiar with it hold many of its wines with little regard.

Yet, in the right hands, it is a variety with serious potential, particularly within Abruzzo. Just look at two "cool-kid" favorites: Valentini and Emidio Pepe, both of whose vinous works of art hold their own against the highest strata of fine wines, Italian or otherwise. But estates like these aren't the norm here.

In Abruzzo, as in much of the wine world, the interests of enterprise often trump those of artistry. After all, it costs a great deal to produce a good wine. Investments made in pursuit of crafting wines of note typically never realize vast returns unless a wine achieves "cult status," like those of the aforementioned Valentini. Even then, much of the profit from the high prices you see goes to importers, distributors, retail shops, or—more likely—flippers, all capitalizing on the demand for these wines. In most cases, it truly takes a sole desire to create beautiful wines, and nothing else, to do just that.

Most wines of Abruzzo unfortunately fall short of this, with many lacking in concentration and flavor due to high yields. The more fruit is grown on a set of vines, the more dilute the juice. But more grapes means more wine, and more wine means more money, at least for a little while.

At the other end of the spectrum, many estates in the area that do invest significant sums toward winemaking go too far in the opposite direction. They produce wines that are over-extracted during fermentation and over-oaked during aging, leaving them unbalanced with high alcohol levels and, well, just so much oak that it becomes fairly unpleasant, at least to me.

But there are a few producers that maintain low-yield vines and take a less heavy-handed approach during winemaking. The resulting wines possess darkness and depth of color, resoundingly sweet fruit, and smooth tannins that, while often approachable in youth, round out even further with age. And a few, like Tiberio's, are both readily available and affordable.

Agricola Tiberio

Cristiana Tiberio, head winemaker for her family's estate, Agricola Tiberio, has taken the winery to new heights in recent years. She and her brother, Antonio, who oversees viticultural duties, exemplify what the Abruzzo region is capable of when its grapes are expertly grown and vinified.

This expertise is unsurprising, though, given that before returning to the estate in 2008, Cristiana's résumé reads like a who's who of some of the most highly sought-after wineries in the world, including stints at Jacques Selosse in Champagne, Egon Müller in the Mosel Valley of Germany, and Coulée de Serrant in Savennières of the Loire Valley in France.

From Left: Cristiana Tiberio | Verity Wines; Cristiana and Antonio Tiberio in their estate vineyard in Abruzzo | Agricola Tiberio

The estate is perhaps best known for its white wines made from Trebbiano Abruzzese, a native white variety of Abruzzo. In particular, the Trebbiano d'Abruzzo Fonte Canale, a single-vineyard wine, is renowned for its profound vibrance and age-worthiness. The family's lower-priced Trebbiano d'Abruzzo, as well as their Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo—which is a rosé wine that is redder in color and deeper in flavor than most rosés due to its longer maceration—are also exceptional and highly regarded.

But their "entry-level" Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, which I'm highlighting here, is a steal, often ringing up at under $20. It is crafted of hand-harvested grapes sourced from vines with an average age of more than fifty years, followed by aging in stainless steel and bottle.

Tiberio Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2018 – $19

The wine itself is juicy and full of red and dark fruits with a pleasantly tart acidity. I get so much ripe, black cherry from it that it's almost overwhelming on the first sip. But it's never forceful, with light floral and herbal hints in the background. The flavors and sensations last extraordinarily long on the palate, with soft tannins that, along with the wine's acidity, indicate a potential to further improve with age.

Perhaps most importantly, though, this wine is approachable and crowd-pleasing, yet it also maintains an ability to sate the desires of serious wine nerds.

It's likely best served with a meat-based, classically Italian meal—though, as a vegetarian, this is just my speculation (try it and let me know). I found it to be stellar with a simple, rich tomato sauce over pasta. Also look to partner it with lasagna (meat or vegetarian), meatballs, or sausage. But while it pairs wonderfully with food, this isn't a wine that demands it: I found it to be gratifying on its own, as well.

It is exceptional straight from the bottle, but also does well with a bit of air. Don't be afraid to throw it in the decanter for a while or leave it open to drink over a few days. For me, it was even better on the second and third days than the first.

If you can't find the 2018, any other recent vintage should be great, as well.

Find it on Wine-Searcher: Tiberio Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2018