Buying Guide
Four Uplifting Wines Under $30
A year into the pandemic, here are four relatively affordable wines to carry you into Spring and, hopefully, some sense of normality.
It's been a rough year, to put it lightly. Wine is, as always, certainly not a necessity right now, but it can be a bright point: something to look forward to at the end of a day or week, or a night of entertainment all to itself. Recently marking one year since COVID-19 lockdowns began here in the U.S., we can use all the bright points we can get. With vaccination numbers increasing, we're hopefully close to returning to some sense of normality, but until then (and after), a great bottle of wine is something to celebrate.
I'm all for opening a treasured bottle to enjoy throughout an evening, but today I'm highlighting four bottles that are on the more "affordable" end of the spectrum. I’ve put that word in quotes because when it comes to wine, affordability is a difficult topic. What is considered affordable varies significantly based on income, necessary expenses, or views on the value of certain items or experiences. In the end, wine is a luxury regardless of the price per bottle. It is meant to be enjoyed, and you should buy whatever brings you that joy, regardless of the cost, characteristics of the wine, or how and where it's made.
That said, I've found $15 to $30 to be the sweet spot for well-crafted bottles that begin to showcase what I think can be so special about wine. Below are four bottles that are easygoing and accessible and that should brighten the day of both a well-seasoned wine veteran as well as someone who's just getting started.
Jean-Claude Lapalu Beaujolais-Villages Vieilles Vignes 2019 – $24
Based in Brouilly, in France's Beaujolais region, Jean-Claude Lapalu has been crafting wines of Gamay for the better part of three decades from vines maintained by two prior generations of Lapalus. A disciple of the winemaking practices of Marcel Lapierre and his fellow originators of the natural wine movement and artisanally crafted Beaujolais wines, Lapalu is a standard-bearer for accessible wines made with minimal to no intervention in the vineyards and the cellar.
His 2019 Beaujolais-Villages Vieilles Vignes bottling perfectly displays minimally extracted, well-ripened fruit offering a floral, perfumed bouquet and red-fruited palate that, to me, evokes pure, red-cherry juice. This is one of my favorite wines, and I can't think of a better introduction to the more serious wines of Beaujolais, well-made natural wines, or, for that matter, wine in general.
Find it on Wine-Searcher: Jean-Claude Lapalu Beaujolais-Villages Vieilles Vignes
Bedrock Old Vine Zinfandel 2018 – $28
Bedrock's Morgan Twain-Peterson, Master of Wine and one of Sonoma's new stars, crafts world-class wines out of meticulously maintained old vines. His best-known bottlings are made from single-vineyard Zinfandel and field-blend vines, many of which are more than a century old.
Much like Riesling (see below), Zinfandel is having something of a comeback, but the key is finding wines that aren't over-extracted, over-oaked, and, most importantly, overripe. Zinfandel is a bit different from other varieties in that it doesn't ripen evenly in the bunch. To ensure ripeness in the least-ripe fruit, growers often pick late, resulting in the ripest grapes becoming almost raisins. This culminates in lower acidity and higher sugars, and therefore, higher alcohol. As a general rule to counter this, look for wines of around 15 percent alcohol or less, like this bottle.
The 2018 Old Vine Zinfandel is made from fruit from a number of different vineyards throughout Sonoma and elsewhere in California, including some of Bedrock's flagship vineyards. It offers a glimpse into the magic of both Zinfandel and Bedrock's higher-level wines at a particularly good value. This will show its best after cellaring for a few years, but it is still absolutely delicious now after decanting for an hour or two and offers a deeper, darker, and spicier experience than the Lapalu.
If you can't find the 2018, the 2019 is currently being released, and based on the composite vineyards from which its fruit is sourced, it looks like it may be an even more serious wine for the money than the 2018, although it will likely require more time in the bottle before it hits its stride.
Find it on Wine-Searcher: Bedrock Old Vine Zinfandel
Dönnhoff Estate Riesling 2019 – $22
German Riesling fell somewhat out of vogue in America following the two World Wars and a declining interest in sweeter wines, but it's on the verge of a comeback. Riesling in general has been showing up more often on my radar recently, and I've been buying bottles to cellar and drink more frequently myself. Both accessible young and age-able for decades, the best Rieslings from Germany will be immeasurably satisfying to anyone and everyone. I'd actually recommend a semi-sweet Riesling as the first wine to try for someone who's new to wine and for those who say they don't like wine at all.
While many German Rieslings are good values for their quality compared with other grapes and regions, Dönnhoff's Estate Riesling is perhaps one of the best values in all of wine. Based in Nahe, Dönnhoff is one of only a handful of producers outside of the Mosel Valley to really be considered at the top tier of German wine. They produce a number of other, more serious wines from single vineyards, but this one offers a particularly unique value and approachability. It's immensely drinkable now, but will also cellar for the short to medium term. The perfect combination of fruit, acidity, and light sweetness, it's great after dinner and refreshing enough to drink outside this Spring.
Be sure to serve it moderately chilled, at about 45 to 50 degrees.
Find it on Wine-Searcher: Dönnhoff Estate Riesling
Vietti Moscato d'Asti 2019 – $17
You may be surprised to find a Moscato on this list, but then again, this isn't your standard Moscato. Yes, it's sweet, only 5 percent alcohol, and not a "serious" wine by any means. But it's a pleasant reminder that wine is meant to be enjoyed, nothing more, and there's nothing more joyful than this. It also helps that it's made from vines that are almost 40 years old and is exceptionally well crafted, which is not surprising considering the family behind it.
The Vietti family has been making wine in Piedmont, Italy, for more than two centuries, establishing themselves as a top-tier producer of single-vineyard Barolo wines, which now sell at retail for hundreds of dollars per bottle and are treasured collectors' bottles. But in addition to prized Nebbiolo, they have also embraced the less noble, native varieties of Piedmont like Barbera, Dolcetto, and Moscato Bianco, growing and producing wines from these "lesser" grapes with the same care and attention they pay to their flagship wines. The result is wines like this Moscato d'Asti, with juicy, peach aromas, a frothy and creamy mouthfeel, and a sweet but not-cloying finish. Perfect for after dinner or as a low-alcohol wine on a hot day.
Both the 2019 and 2020 vintages of this wine are superb, so purchase whichever you can find. Make sure to serve it chilled, just warmed a bit from the refrigerator, at around 40 degrees.
Find it on Wine-Searcher: Vietti Moscato d'Asti